Question | Answer |
belay anchors - SRENE - S | secure |
belay anchors - SRENE - R | redundant (minimum of two of everything) |
belay anchors - SRENE - E | equalized (each piece shares the load) |
belay anchors - SRENE - NE | no extension (no shock loading if one fails) |
belay anchors - no more than how many degrees apart? | 90 |
belay anchor systems - DO NOT USE, not redundant, not equalized, shock load to the maximum | american death triangle |
belay anchor systems - not recommended, shock loads | sliding x (equalized anchor) |
belay anchor systems - sometimes used | slings as anchors |
belay anchor systems - recommended | cordelette |
fall factor formula | length of fall over length of rope out |
rappel system - BARK | buckle, anchor, rappel device, knot |
knots - tie into rope | figure 8 |
knots - anchor knot (3) | figure 8 on a bight, girth hitch, clove hitch |
equipment strength - harness | 7000 lbs |
equipment strength - rope | 2000 lbs, 4000 lbs static stength |
equipment strength - regular carabiners | 4000 lbs, 1300 lbs open |
equipment strength - locking carabiners | 5000 lbs, 2000 lbs open |
equipment strength - hex nuts | 750 lbs to 3500 lbs (depending on size) |
equipment strength - camming units | 750 lbs to 4000 lbs (depending on size) |
equipment strength - sewn runners | about 4000 lbs |
maximum fall force a human can withstand without injury | 2697.6 lbs |