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Fabrics
Term | Definition |
---|---|
broadcloth | fine, tightly woven, plain weave. usually cotton or cotton/poly. used in blouses, shirts, petticoats, & linings |
brocade | raised pattern, usually backed by twill or satin weave. costumes from renaissance-18th c |
burlap | plain weave, jute fibers. used for peasant costumes |
buckram | plain weave. coarse and stiff. cotton. used as a stiffener for hats, shoulder wings, epaulets. |
calico | plain weave. cotton. medium weight & smooth surface. small designs printed on it. quilt and crafts, but also dresses & shirts for 19th & 20th c |
challis | soft, lightweight, plain weave. usually in a vivid floral pattern. rayon, cotton, or wool |
cheesecloth | plain weave. cotton. very loose weave. crafts like masks, and texturing on costumes |
chiffon | plain weave. soft, lightweight, sheer. made of filament yarns, like silk, acetate, rayon, or nylon. |
china silk | plain weave. silk. dance costumes |
corduroy | cut pile woven onto plain or twill. pile is made into rows called wales or ribs. usually cotton, maybe cotton/poly. coats, trousers, tailored women's costumes. |
crepe | variety of weaves and fibers. fabrics with puckered, crinkled, or pebbly surface. |
denim | twill weave. cotton or cotton/poly. usually blue warp and white weft. |
felt | non-woven. wool, acrylic, rayon, or polyester. not for fitted clothing. doesn't fray. hats and crafts. |
flannel | plain weave. wool. soft, napped surface. warm. trousers and suits. if cotton, then flannelette. shirts and sleepwear |
gabardine | twill weave. wool, or cotton. surface looks diagonal ribbed, but back is plain woven. strong. used in suits. |
jersey | simple knit fabric. plain stitches on right side, purl on wrong. any fiber. basic dance costume fabric. |
milliskin | knit. spandex. |
monks cloth | basket weave. cotton. even number of weft and warp. frays a lot. not for fitted garments. |
muslin | plain weave. cotton. petticoats, skirts, shirts, linings, fitting patterns, and flats |
net | any open mesh fabric. |
satin | satin weave. silk or man-made, like acetate. more warp than weft (floats). |
sateen | satin weave. cotton. more weft than warp (floats). |
taffeta | plain weave. originally silk, now acetate, rayon, and nylon. lightweight, lustrous, & crisp. weft are thicker, which gives it a ribbed effect. linings & petticoats |
tweed | plain, twill, or herringbone. wool. men's & women's tailored costumes. |
velvet | warp pile fabric. silk, rayon, nylon, or acetate. ground yarns can be different than pile fibers. one direction looks lighter than the other |
velveteen | warp pile fabric. cotton. backing can be twill or plain. |