stuff about waves
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| ocean currents | Ocean water that contains stream-like movements of water.
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| What are currents are influenced by? | The weather, the Earth’s rotation, and the position of the continents.
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| surface currents | Horizontal, stream-like movements of water that occur at or near the surface of the ocean.
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| What is one of the longest surface currents? | The Gulf Stream
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| What creates surface currents in the ocean? | Winds that blow across the Earth’s surface.
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| Where do the winds blow ocean water east to west? | Near the equator
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| Where do the winds blow ocean water west to east? | Near the poles
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| What causes wind and surface currents to move in curved paths instead of in straight lines? | The Earth’s rotation
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| Coriolis effect | The curving of moving objects from a straight path due to the Earth’s rotation.
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| What causes surface currents in the Northern Hemisphere to turn clockwise? | Coriolis effect
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| What causes surface currents in the Southern Hemisphere to turn counterclockwise? | Coriolis effect
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| deflect | A change direction
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| What happens when surface currents meet continents? | They deflect
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| How much of continents rise above sea level? | Roughly 1/3
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| What three factors form a pattern of surface currents on Earth? | Global winds, the Coriolis effect, and continental deflections
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| Current are affected by... | The water that they are formed in.
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| What currents begin near the equator and carry warm water to other parts of the ocean? | Warm water currents
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| What currents begin closer to the poles and carry cool water to other parts of the ocean? | Cold water currents
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| deep currents | Stream-like movements of ocean water located far below the surface.
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| Where do deep currents form? | Deep currents form in parts of the ocean where water density increases.
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| Density | The amount of matter in a given space, or volume.
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| salinity | A measure of the amount of dissolved salts or solids in a liquid.
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| What can increase the water’s density? | Decreasing the temperature of ocean water and increasing the water’s salinity.
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| What is density of ocean water affected by? | Temperature and salinity
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| trough | the lowest point of a wave.
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| wavelength | The distance between two wave crests or wave troughs.
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| wave height | The vertical distance between the crest and trough of a wave.
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| crest | The highest point of a wave.
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| what are the two main parts of a wave? | crests and troughs
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| Wave period | The time between the passage of two wave crests or troughs at a certain point.
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| How do find wave speed? | Dividing wavelength by wave period
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| How do most waves form? | Wind blows across the water’s surface and transfers energy to the water.
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| Deep-water waves | Waves that move in water deeper than one-half their wavelength.
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| shallow-water waves | When the waves reach water shallower than one-half their wavelength.
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| How do deep-water waves become shallow-water waves? | They move toward the shore
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| What can form different types of waves? | Underwater earthquakes and landslides
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| undertow | This movement of water, which carries sand, rock particles, and plankton away from the shore.
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| breakers | Gravity pulls the high wave crests down, and causes them to crash into the ocean floor.
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| longshore current | When waves hit the shore at an angle, they cause water to move along the shore in a current.
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| breaker zone | The area where waves first begin to tumble downward, or break.
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| surf | The area between the breaker zone and the shore.
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| What transports most of the sediment in beach environments? | Longshore currents
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| Whitecaps | White, foaming waves with very steep crests that break in the open ocean before the waves get close to the shore.
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| Swells | Rolling waves that move steadily across the ocean.
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| Tsunamis | waves that form when a large volume of ocean water is suddenly moved up or down.
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| What can cause Tsunamis? | Underwater earthquakes, volcanic eruptions, landslides, underwater explosions, or the impact of a meteorite or comet.
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| storm surge | A local rise in sea level near the shore that is caused by strong winds from a storm, such as a hurricane.
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| Why are storm surges difficult to study? | Storm surges often disappear as quickly as they form.
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| How can winds form a storm surge? | By blowing water into a big pile under the storm.
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| When is the moon’s pull strongest? | On the part of the Earth directly facing the moon.
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| Is the pull on liquids or solids more noticeable? | liquid
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| high tides | Water on the opposite side of the Earth bulges because of the rotation of the Earth and the motion of the moon around the Earth.
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| low tides | When high tides occur, water is drawn away from the area between the high tides.
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| What causes the water to bulge? | The position of the moon.
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| What determines when tides occur? | The rotation of the Earth and the moon’s revolution around the Earth.
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| When do spring tides occur? | When the sun, Earth, and moon are aligned.
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| Spring tides | Tides with the largest daily tidal range and occur during the new and full moons.
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| How often do spring tides occur? | Every 14 days
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| tidal range | The difference between levels of ocean water at high tide and low.
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| Neap tides | Tides with the smallest daily tidal range and occur during the first and third quarters of the moon.
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| When do neap tides occur? | When the sun, Earth, and moon form a 90° angle.
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| How often do neap tides occur? | Neap tides occur halfway between the occurrences of spring tides.
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| tidal bore | A body of water that rushes up through a narrow bay, estuary, or river channel during the rise of high tide and causes a very sudden tidal rise.
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| Where do tidal bores occur? | In some coastal areas that have narrow inlets.
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| What affects tides? | The sun & the moon
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| What happens when neap tides occur? | The gravitational forces on the Earth by the sun and moon work against each other.
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| Upwelling | A process in which cold, nutrient-rich water from the deep ocean rises to the surface and replaces warm surface water.
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Created by:
jaslyn