Chapter 14 Milady; Principles of Hair Design
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space between two lines or surfaces that intersect at a given point | Angle
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highest point on the top of the head | Apex
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triangular section that begins at the apex and ends at the front corners | Bang (Fringe)
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technique using diagonal lines by cutting hair ends with a slight increase or decrease in length | Beveling
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haircut in which all the hair come to one hanging level, forming a weight line or are; hair is cut with no elevation or over direction; also referred to as a one-length, zero-elevation, or no-elevation cut | Blunt haircut
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haitcutting technique done by placing the still blade into the hair and resting in on the scalp, and then moving the shears through the hair while opening and partially closing the shears | Carving
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haircutting technique similar to scissor-over-comb, except that the clippers move side to side accross the comb rather than the bottom | Clipper-over-comb
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parting the haircut in the opposite way from which you cut it, to check for precision of line and shape | Cross-checking
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area of the head between the apex and back of the parietal ridge | Crown
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angle at which the fingers are held when cutting, and ultimately the line that is cut; also known as finger angle, finger position, cutting position, cutting angle | Cutting line
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where and how the hair is moved over the head | Distrubtion
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angle or degree at which the hair is held, or lifted, from the head when cutting; also referred to as projection or lifting | Elevation
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points on the head that singal a change in the shape of the head, from flat to round or vice versa | Four corners
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notching technique in which pieces of hair are snipped out at random intervals | Free-hand notching
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technique used to release weight from the subsection, allowing the hair to move more freely | Free-hand slicing
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graduated shape or wedge; an effect or haircut that results from cutting the hair with tension, low to medium elevation or over direction | Graduated haircut
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elevation occurs when a section is lifted above 0 degrees | Graduation
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direction in which the hair grows from the scalp; also referred to as natural falling position | Growth pattern
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section of hair, located either at the perimeter or the interior of the cut, that determines the length the hair will be cut; also referred to as a guide; usually the first section that is cut to create a shape | Guideline
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hait that grows at the outermost perimeter along the face, around the ears, and on the neck | Hairline
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shape of the head, which greatly affects the way the hair falls and behaves; also called head shape | Headform
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inner or internal part | Interior
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guideline that is inside the haircut rather than on the perimeter | Interior guideline
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graduated effect achieved by cutting the hair with elevation or over direction; the hair is cut higher elevations, usually 90 degrees or above, which removes weight | Layered haircut
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create movement and volume in the hair by releasing weight | Layers
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thin continuous mark used as a guide; can be straight or curved, horizontal, vertical, or diagonal | Line
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haircut in which the hair is cut at a 180-degree angle; the resulting shape has shorter layers at the top and increasingly longer layers toward the perimeter | Long-layered cut
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back part of the neck; the hair below the occipital bone | Nape
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version of point cutting in whuch the tops of the scissors are moved toward the hair ends rather than into them; creates a chunkier effect | Notching
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combing a section away from its natural falling position, rather than straight out from the head, toward a guideline; used to create increasing lengths in the interior perimeter | Over-direction
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cutting position in which the palms of both hands are facing each other | Palm-to-palm
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widest area of the head, usually starting at the temples and ending at the bottom of the crown | Parietal ridge
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line dividing the hair to the scalp that seperates one section of the hair from another or creates subsections | Part/partings
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outer line of a hairstyle | Perimeter
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haircutting technique in which the tips of the shears are used to cut "points" into the ends of hair | Point cutting
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texturizing technique in which the comb and the razor are used on the surface of the hair | Razor-over-comb
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texturizing technique similar to razor-over-comb, done with small circular motions | Razor rotation
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points on the head that mark where the surface of the head changes or the behavior of the hair changes, such as ears, jawline, occipital bone, apex, and so on; used to establish design lines that are proportionate | Reference points
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to divide the hair by parting into uniform working areas for control | Sections
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haircutting technique in which the hair is held in place with the comb while the tips of the scissors are used to remove the lengths | Scissor-over-comb
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technique that removes bulk and adds movement through the lengths of the hair; the shears are not completely close, and only the portion of yhr blades near the pivot is used | Slicing
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method of cutting or thinning the hair in which the fingers and shears glide along the edge of the hair to remove length | Slide cutting
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process of thinning the hair to graduated lengths with shears; cutting the hair with a sliding movement of the shears while keeping the blades partially opened; also called effilating | Slithering (effilating)
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guideline that does not move | Stationary guideline
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smaller sections within a larger section of hair, used to maintain control of the hair while cutting | Subsections
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haircutting effect in which there is an even blend from very short at the hairline to longer lengths as you move up the head; to "taper" is to narrow progressively at one end | Tapers
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amount of pressure applied when combing and holding a section, created bu stretching or pulling the section | Tension
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removing excess bulk without shortening the length; changing the appearance or behaviour of the hair through specific haircutting techniques, using shears, thinning shears, or a razor | Texturizing
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guideline that moves as the haircutting progresses, used often when creating layers or graduation | Traveling guideline
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hair is elevated to 90 degrees from the scalp and cut at the same length | Uniform layers
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visual "line" in the haircut, where the ends of the hair hang together | Weight line
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