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Ch. 18 Chemical Texture Services

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Term
Definition
acid-balanced waves   perms with a 7.8-8.2 pH range that process at room temperature; do not required hair dryer heat  
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alkaline/cold waves   perms that process at room temperature without heat with a pH ranges between 9.0-9.6  
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ammonium thioglycolate (ATG)   main active ingredient/reducing agent in alkaline waves  
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base control   the position of the perm rod in relation to its base section  
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base cream   protective cream used on the scalp during hair relaxing  
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base direction   angle at which the perm rod is positioned on the head; also the direction in which the hair is wrapped  
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base relaxers   relaxers that require the used of a base/protective cream  
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base sections   subsections of panels into which the hair is divided for rodding  
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basic perm wrap   rodding pattern in which all the tools within the panel are directed in the same direction  
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bookend wrap   perm wrap in which an end paper is folded in half over the hair ends  
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chemical blow-out   combination of a relaxer and hairstyling used to create a variety of Afro styles  
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chemical hair relaxing   the process of rearranging the basic structure of extremely curly hair into a straightened form  
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chemical texture services   hair services that cause a chemical change that permanently alters the natural wave pattern of the hair  
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crouignole rodding   rodding from the hair ends to scalp  
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end wraps   end paper; absorbent paper used to protect and control the ends of the hair during perming services  
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endothermic waves   perm activated by an outside heat source, usually a hooded dryer  
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exothermic waves   perms that create an exothermic chemical reaction that heats the solution and speeds up processing  
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glyceryl monothioglycolate (GMTG)   main active ingredient in true acid and acid-balanced waves  
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hydroxide relaxers   relaxer with a very high pH, sometimes over 13  
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Ianthionization   process by which hydroxide relaxers permanently straighten hair  
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lotion wrap   permanent waving wrapping technique in which the waving solution is applied to the section before rodding  
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neutralization   process of stopping the action of a permanent wave solution and hardening the hair in its new form by the application of a chemical called a neutralizer  
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no-base relaxer   relaxers that do not require application of a protective base  
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permanent waving   a process used to chemically restructure natural hair into a different wave pattern  
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pre-wrap solution   usually a type of leave in conditioner that may be applied to the hair prior to permanent waving to equalize porosity  
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reformation curl   a soft-curl permanent; combination of a thio relaxer and a thio permanent, whereby the hair is wrapped on perm rods, used to make the existing curl larger and looser  
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texturize   a process used to semi-straighten extremely curly hair into a more manageable texture and wave pattern  
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thio relaxers   relaxers that usually have a pH of 10 and a higher concentration of ammonium thioglycolate than is used in permanent waving  
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true acid waves   perms that have a pH between 4.5-7.0 and require heat to speed processing; process more slowly than alkaline waves and do not usually produce a firm curl  
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