Question | Answer |
The periodic rise and fall of the ocean's surface caused by the gravitational force between Earth and the Moon and between Earth and the Sun. | Tide (Long Definition) |
Occurs when Earth , the Moon, and the Sun form a right angle; has the lowest tidal range | Neap Tide (Long Definition) |
The average level of the ocean's surface at any given time. | Sea level |
A wave that forms when an ocean disturbance suddenly moves a large volume of water. | Tsunami |
Occurs when Earth, the Moon, and the Sun form a straight line; has the largest tidal range. | Spring tide (Long Definition) |
The difference in water level between a high tide and a low tide. | Tidal range |
The highest part of a wave. | Crest |
The lowest part of a wave. | Trough |
The vertical distance between the crest and the trough. | Wave height |
The horizontal distance from crest to crest or trough to trough. | Wavelength |
The currents formed by wind blowing over the surface of water. | Surface waves |
A tide that has the largest tidal range. | Spring tide |
A tide that has the lowest tidal range. | Neap tide |
The _____ distance between the crest and the trough of a wave is the wave height. | Vertical |
Surface waves are the currents formed by _____ _____ over the surface of water. | Wind blowing |
____ are the periodic rise and fall of the ocean's surface caused by the ___________ force between Earth and the Moon and between Earth and the Sun. | Tides; gravitational |
A spring tide is a tide that has the largest ______ ______ and occurs when Earth, the Moon, and the Sun form a ______ _____. | Tidal range; straight line |
True or False: The motion of the water particles in a wave is circular. | True |
True or False: Wave generally transport water. | False |
Describe the sequence of events that occurs when a wave reaches shallow water. (Part 1) | As a wave moves into shallow water, it changes shape & size. The change begins when the base of the wave comes in contact with the sloping seafloor. As the base of the wave drags on the seafloor, the wave's speed decreases. (Part 1) |
Describe the sequence of events that occurs when a wave reaches shallow water. (Part 2) | At the same time, the wavelength shortens & the wave height increases. When the wave reaches a certain height, the wave base can no longer support the crest, & the wave collapses. After a wave breaks, the water surges forward onto shore. (Part 2) |
Define breaker. | When a wave reaches a certain height, the wave base can no longer support the crest & the wave collapses. |
How shallow does water need to be for a breaker to from? | More shallow than how long the base of the wave is. |
What is a tsunami? | A wave that forms when an ocean disturbance suddenly moves a large volume of water. |
What disturbance can cause a tsunami? | Earthquake, glaciers breaking apart, etc. |