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Oceanography
Chap 10
| Question | Answer |
|---|---|
| Wave | Disturbances caused by the movement of energy from a source through some medium (solid, liquid or gas ) |
| Orbits | Circular paths |
| Orbital wave | A wave in which the particles of the medium ( water) move in closed circles as the wave passes |
| Progressive wave | Wave form that moves forward |
| Wave crest | Highest part of the wave above average water level |
| Wave trough | Lowest part of the wave below average water level |
| Wave height | The vertical distance between two seccessive crests or troughs |
| Wave length | The horizontal distance between two successive crests or troughs |
| Wave period | The time it takesfor a wave to move a distance of one wavelength |
| Wave frequency | The number of waves passing a fixed point per second |
| Stokes Drift | Process that drives the oceans surface currents by the water molecules in the crest of a passing wave moving in the same direction of the wave but the molecules in the trough move in the opposite direction. |
| If the particle speed decreases with depth, molecules in the top half of the orbit will move farther forward in the direction the wave is moving than molecules in the bottom half of the orbit will move backward. | |
| Disturbing force | Energy that causes ocean waves to form |
| Free wave | A wave that is formed and the propagates across the sea surface without the further influence of the force that formed it |
| Forced wave | A wave that is maintained by its disturbing force |
| Restoring force | The dominant force that returns the waterr surface to flatness after a wave has formed in it |
| Gravity waves | Waves with wavelenghts larger than 1.73 cm and depend on gravity to provide the restoring force |
| Deep water waves | Waves moving through water deeper than about half their wavelenght |
| Shallow water waves | Waves moving in water shallower than 1/20 their original wavelength |
| Transitional waves | Waves that travell through water deeper than 1/20 their original wavelength but shallower than one-half their original wavelength |
| Wind waves | Gravity waves formed by the transfer of wind energy into water |
| Capillary waves | Form as wind friction stretches the water surface and as surface tension tries to restore it to smoothness----important in transferring energy from air to water to drive ocean currents and help form wind waves |
| Wave steepness | Ratio of wave height to wave length |
| Dispersion | Process of wave separation that produces swells |
| Swell | The smooth undulationof the ocean surface |
| Wave trains | Progressing groups of swell with the same origin and wavelength |
| Group velocity | The halfspeed advanceof the wave train and the speed with which wave energy advances represented by V |
| Wind Strength | One of the factors that affects the growth of wind waves----in order to transfer energy from air to sea the wind must be moving faster than the wave crests |
| Wind duration | A second factor that affects the growth of wind waves----the length of time wind blows |
| Fetch | The third factor that affects the growth of wind waves----the uninterrupted distance over which the wind blows without significant change in one direction |
| Fully developed sea | The maximum wave size theoretically possible for a wind of a specific strength, duration, and fetch |
| Interference | The interaction of two waves adding or subtracting from one another when they meet |
| Destructive interference | The cancellation effect of subtraction----the acto of wave interference subtracting or canceling waves |
| Constructive interference | The additive formation of large crests or deep troughs, the size of which exceeds the size of each participating wave |
| Surf beat | The process of the surf along a beach rising to a few big waves, diminishing, and then building again |
| Rogue wave | A wave that would be much larger than any noticed before or after and higher than the theoretical maximum wave capable of being sustained in a fully developed sea |
| Surf Zone | The region betoween the breaking waves and the shore |
| Surf | The turbulent mass of agitated water rushing shoreward during and after the break |
| Plunging waves | A wave whose break is violent and toppling, leaving an air filled channel or tube between the falling crest and the foot of the wave----form when a wave approaches a steeply sloping bottom |
| Wave refraction | The slowing and bending of waves in shallow water which causes waves to break in a line almost parallel to the shore |
| Wave diffraction | The propagation of a wave around an obstacle |
| Wave reflection | The process of waves hitting an obstacle and and moving away from it the direction they came----causes interference in the form of standing waves |
| Standing waves | Vertical oscilations that do not progress but appear as alternating crests and troughs at a fixed position |
| Internal waves | Progressive waves that can occur at the junction between air and water or can form at the boundary between water layers of different densities |
| Storm surge | The abrupt bulge of water driven ashore by a tropical cyclone (hurricane) or frontal storm |
| Seiche | Water that is confined to a small space(such as a bucket or bath tub or bay) will slosh back and forth at a specific resonant frequency when disturbed |
| Tsunami | Long-wavelenth, shallow water progressive waves caused by the rapid displacement of ocean water----Japanese word combining tsu("harbor") and nami("wave") |
| Seismic sea waves | Tsunami caused by the sudden vertical movement of Earth along faults(ie the same forces that cause earthquakes) |
Created by:
lenelcorrea
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