The beach area, landward of the foreshore above the normal reach of the tides, that provides the primary protection from the hinterland
Coastal Environment
Intertidal and Nearshore
Zone of land between highest and lowest tides
In low-lying areas i.e mudflats, this can be very extensive and important ecologically
Coastal Environment
Offshore Zone
A zone that is seaward of the breakpoint
This may include features such as offshore bars
Coastal Environment
Coast
The area where landmasses meet the sea
Often used to encompass the zones on either side of the shoreline
Coastal Environment
Coastline/Shoreline
A line used in the analysis of shoreline evolution
It represents the cliff top edge on cliffed coasts, edge of hard defences where these exist, and the backshore/ hinter
Coastal Environment
Coastal Zonation
The identification of areas of coast often for planning purposes
The term may refer to zones such as offshore, onshore or to sections of the coast sharing common marine processes.
Coastal Environment
Littoral Zone
The environmental zone that exists between the highest and lowest levels of the spring tides.
Coastal Environment
Beach System
The inputs, outputs, transfers, processes and stores that interact with each other on the beach
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System
Coastal System
The inputs, outputs, transfers, processes and stores that interact with each other along the coast
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System
Littoral Cells
Offshore littoral zones within which the circulation of sediment through longshore drift and other processes, is relatively self contained.
11 such zones have been identified for England and Wales
System
Sediment Sinks
These occur when sediment movements meet and material is lost from marine circulation
They are often associated with the creation of depositional features
System
Dynamic Equilibrium
The balance between inputs and outputs in a system
It is linked to the concept of "steady state"
System
Storm Surge
A rapid rise in sea level brought about by a combination of factors.
These factors include; - High sring tides - strong onshore winds - funneling of water into narrow coastal zones - very low atmospheric pressure - esturine rivers at flood level due to prolonged rainfall.
System
Storm Event
An exceptionally powerful storm with associated geomorphological consequences i.e the creation of a new storm beach
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System
Structure
Geological features
i.e folding and faulting
Physical Factor AC
Lithology
Rock Type
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Physical Factor AC
Differential Erosion
The erosion of different geological elements at different rates due to variations.
i.e lithology or faulting which may lead to features such as headlands and bays.
Physical Factor AC
Fault Zone
Area of rocks with a high degree of faulting, making it prone to erosion
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Physical Factor AC
Jointing
Fractures in rocks that do not involve faulting
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Physical Factor AC
Bedding Plane
Surface within a rock that is parallel to the surface of deposition
Often associated with cracks that may lead to erosion
Physical Factor AC
Concordant Features
Features that occur where geological structures run parallel with the coast
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Physical Factor AC
Discordant Features
Features which occur when structures run at right angles to the coast
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Physical Factor AC
Wave Frequency
The number of waves per minute
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Physical Factor AC
Fetch
The distance that a wave travels before breaking
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Physical Factors AC
Dominant Wind
The wind direction that has the principal impact on marine processes in an area
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Physical Factor AC
Prevailing Wind
The wand that blows most frequently in an area
It is often the dominant wind
Physical Factor AC
Corrasion
Erosion caused by pebbles and rock fragments hitting the beach or cliff rocks.
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C Process
Abrasion
Another term for corrasion
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C Process
Corrosion
Erosion brought about by chemical action on rocks
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C Process
Hydraulic Action
Erosion brought about by the pressure of water on cliffs and beaches.
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C Process
Wave Refraction
The "bending" of a wave due to friction as its base touches the seabed
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C Process
Longshore Drift
The movement of material along a beach caused by waves (swash) striking the beach at an angle, and the backwash returning at right angles
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C Process
Rip Currents
Fast flowing backwash that can scour beach channels
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C Process
Tides
The periodic rises and falls of sea level due to the gravitational action of the sun and moon
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C Process
Micro-Tidal Environment
The zone of littoral affected by tidal action
It has particular relevance to ecological systems
C Process
Swash
Water moving up a beach after a wave has broken
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C Process
Backwash
The movement of water back down a beach due to gravity
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C Process
Sub-aerial Erosion
Non-marine erosional processes that occur on cliff and beach surfaces
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C Process
Rotational Slipping
Landslipping that occurs on a curved plane
It is often caused by weak underlying rocks giving way during saturation
C Process
Slumping
Movement of material down a slope, under gravity, but lubricated by water
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C Process
Flow
The movement of liquid or semi-liquid material downslope e.g on a cliff face
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C Process
Landslide
Movement of dry material downslope (due to gravity) with no lubrication
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C Process
Long Term Changes
Long Term - permanent changes that occur quickly or slowly
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C Process
Short Term Changes
Changes that happen relatively quickly and usually regarded as temporary
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C Process
Active Cliffs
Cliffs undergoing active erosion
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C Landforms
Degraded Cliffs
Non-active cliffs
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C Landforms
Wave-cut notch
An "undercut" or notch at the base of a cliff caused by marine erosion
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C Landforms
Wave-cut flatform
A gently sloping platform (less than 4o) at the base of the cliff, cut by marine action
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C Landfrorms
Cliff Profile
The verticle outline or cross-section of a cliff
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C Landforms
Sea Cave
Hollow cut in a cliff by marine action
eg. limestone caves Llantwit Major
C Landforms
Sea Arch
Arch in a cliff cut by marine action
eg. Durdle Door, Dorset
C Landform
Stack
Tall remnant of a cliff, left isolated by marine action
eg. The Needles
C Landform
Stump
Short remnant of a cliff, left isolated by marine action
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C Landform
Geo
Steep sided inlet cut by marine action
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C Landform
Beach
The deposit of non-cohesive material on the interface between dry land and the sea
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C Landform
Beach Cusps
Small "embayments" found on beaches that channel swash to their centres, thus maintaining their form
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C Landform
Beach Profile
Vertical cross section of a beach
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C Landform
Storm Beach
A line of coarse material deposited on the upper beach during a storm
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C Landform
Berm
Ridge of coarse material on the upper beach deposited by spring tides and storms
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C Landforms
Spit
Long strip of shingle joined to the coast
This results from marine deposition
C Landforms
Bar
Offshore deposit of sand or shingle
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C Landform
Tombolo
Island linked to mainland by a depositional feature such as a spit
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C Landform
Sea Level Changes
Can be positive, negative, eustatic, isostatic
Positive (a sea level rise relative to the land), Negative ( a sea level fall relative to the land), Eustatic ( changes caused by sea volume changes ie. global warming), Isostatic (changes brought about by vertical land movements ie. melting of glaciers)
C Landform
Raised Beach
Old becah left "high and dry" by falling sea level
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C Landform
Fjord
Glacial valley drowned by sea level rise to form narrow, steep sided inlet
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C Landform
Ria
Steep sided river valley drowned by sea level rise
e.g Dartmouth
C Landform
Estuaries
Lower stretches of rivers that are tidal - often drowned by post-glacial sea level rise
Cardio Block2anatomy
