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Oceanography Ch 10
Coasts, Beaches and Estuaries
Term | Definition |
---|---|
Coast | areas where the lands meets the sea |
Shore | strip of ground bordering any body of water and alternately exposed and covered by tides and waves |
Beach | an accumulation of sediment that occupies a portion of the shore |
primary coast | coastline shaped primarily by terrestrial processes rather than marine processes |
secondary coast | coastline shaped primarily by terrestrial processes rather than marine processes |
fjord | narrow, deep, steep-walled inlet formed by the submergence of a mountainous coast or by the entrance of the ocean into a deeply excavated glacial trough after the melting of the glacier |
sill | a collection of debris creating a shallow entrance to a bay… |
moraine | glacial deposit of rock, gravel, and other sediment left at the margin of an ice sheet |
drowned river valley | at lower sea levels, rivers cut v shaped channels along the shore which later became submerged when sealevels rose |
Delta | area of unconsolidated sediment deposits, usually triangular in outline, formed at the mouth of a river |
fault bay | a bay formed by faulting along a primary coast |
sea stack | isolated mass of rock rising from the sea near a headland from which it has been separated by erosion |
bar | offshore ridge or mound of sand, gravel, or other loose material that is submerged. at least at high tide; located especially at the mouth of a river or estuary or lying a short distance from and parallel to the beach. |
barrier island | deposit of sand, parallel to shore and raised above sea level; may support vegetation and animal life |
sand spit | low tongue of land, or a relatively long, narrow shoal extending from the shore |
tombolo | deposit of unconsolidated material that connects an island to another island or to the mainland |
jetty | structure located to influence currents or to protect the entrance to a harbor or river from waves |
estuary | semi-isolated portion of the ocean that is diluted by freshwater drainage from land |
breakwater | structure protecting a shore area, harbor, anchorage, or basin from waves; a type of jetty |
Santa Barbara Story | entrance to a yacht club that plugged up with sediment carried by longshore currents after a jetty was improperly installed |
Longshore Current | current produced in the surf zone by the waves breaking at an angle with the shore; the current runs roughly parallel to the shoreline |