Coasts
Quiz yourself by thinking what should be in
each of the black spaces below before clicking
on it to display the answer.
Help!
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| Define ‘wavelength’. | The distance between two successive wave crests (or wave troughs)
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| Define ‘wave height’. | This is the vertical height between the trough and the crest of a wave.
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| What provides waves with energy? | The wind, as it blows across the sea’s surface
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| What three parameters control how much energy a wave gains? | 1. Windspeed
2. Duration of windy conditions
3. The distance over which wind and water are in contact (the fetch)
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| Why does particle motion within a wave change as the wave approaches the shore? | Particle motion in waves is limited to a depth of one wavelength. When the seabed is at less than one wavelength depth, the presence of the seabed changes the motion of water moving in the wave, creating a more elliptical particle motion.
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| What effect does this have on the following? 1. Wavelength 2. Wave height 3. Wave steepness | 1. The wavelength is reduced.
2. The wave height increases.
3. The wave becomes steeper.
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| What are the swash and backwash? | Swash: Water that rushes up the beach in an onshore direction after a wave breaks.
Backwash: Water running back down the beach in an offshore direction due to the
pull of gravity.
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Created by:
esleeman
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