Costuming Midterm
Quiz yourself by thinking what should be in
each of the black spaces below before clicking
on it to display the answer.
Help!
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sharps needles | long with small eye
general sewing needle
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betweens needles | short with small eye
general sewing-quilts needle
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glover's needles | flat point, sharp on edges
sews leather, vinyl needle
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curved needles | shaped like an arc
sews rigid surfaces needle
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sizing of hand needles | smaller= thicker, heavier
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costume shop structure | shop manager/supervisor/director
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draping team | draper, first hand, stitchers
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draper | plans construciton, supervises, makes patters
IN CHARGE OF DRAPING TEAM
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first hand | supervises stitchers, alterations, cutting, simple patterns, complex stitching
open job, variety of duties
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stitchers | stitch costumes
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dyer/painter | distresses costumes
dyes
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milliner | hats
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cobbler | shoes
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wigmaker | wigs
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wardrobe crew | in charge of costumes after they are constructed
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resident costume shop | makes costumes for one specific theater
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independent/contracted costume shop | contracted by contractor
produces costumes for a variety of theaters
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office/planning area | costume director keeps track of things
needs desk, computer
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cutting/draping area | where cutters and drapers work
needs cutting tables
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stitching area | needs tables for stitchers
maching/hand sewing area, pressing area
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crafts area | needs ventilation, running water, lighting, storage, electricity, big tables, separate washer and drier
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laundry/matinence area | needs washer and dryer, steamers
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fitting rooms | need to fit 4-5 people
need full length, 3-way mirror
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storage | sometimes warehouse
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snaps | male on top, female on bottom
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sizing of snaps | 0-6, 6 is largest
23- whopper popper
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hooks and eyes/bars | double thread to attatch them
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buttons | shanked- extends, leaves space
unshanked- make shank out of thread
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contemporary/modern dress costumes | clothes we wear today
1960s-now
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period/historical cosumes | prehistory, early 20th century
"silhouette"
bustle dress
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fantasy costumes | not anything worn/wear
show girl, animal
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buying costumes | most modern clothes, accessiories, some period
if time is a factor, cheaper than building
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renting costumes | if need something specific for show
if time is a facor
rent multiple things that match, general things
least expensive
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building costumes | most expensive because labor is needed
build things with the most stage time
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pull from stock | using things you already have
small budget
corsetts, shirts, pants
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what a rendering should show | shape, fit, seam lines, color, texture, trim, accessories, hair
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spec session | designer and costume director present
do sourcing, make lists, budget, materials
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fitting | 4 or 5 people present
performer, designer and assistant, draper, costume director
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drafting | 2D method
use math calculations to draft measurements
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draping | 3D method
pinned on form and draw seam lines
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body block or slopers | simple pattern of a body
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dress form | used for draping, pin fabric over
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what garments can't be drafted | bias cut, period skirts
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what garments can't be successfully draped | corsetts, tailored jackets, pants, sleeves/collars
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seam allowance | allowance on seam
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plain seam | most simple seam
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french seam | enclose all raw edges, strong
seam for sheer fabric, seam
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flat felled seam | seam flat on all sides
used for scenic things, seam
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plain dart | short seam that comes to a fold
used for pants, bodice, dresses
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contour dart | short seam taht comes to a fold
used for corsets
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easing | squishing not as much fabric
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gathering | squishing 2x fabric
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pleating | folding in a specific way
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knife pleats | fold back and forth in zig zag
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box pleats | fold and change direction, cheerleading skirt
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three systems for sewing maching | upper, lower, feed systems
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upper thread | completely visible
has tension assembly, take up lever, and needle
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lower thread | has 2 parts
bobbin and bobbin case
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feed | changes length of stitch
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sewing machine needles | 3 different points: sharp, ball, wedge
sizes: smaller number= smaller needle
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bobbin/bobbin case | flat spool of thread/put into
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take-up lever | takes up slack
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presser foot | controls machine
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warp thread | runs in straight grain, stronger thread
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weft thread | in cross grain, more body/spring thread
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straight grain | shrinks the most, verticle grain
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cross grain | most body/spring, horizontal grain
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bias | stretchy
if cut, fewer grain lines
more mold, clings grain
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selvage | tightly woven edge
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45" fabric length | garments stitched with
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54" fabric length` | home decorations stitched with
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60" fabric length | wool, menswear stitched with
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36" fabric length | lace stitched with
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4 main natural fibers | cotton, linen/flax, wool, silk
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cotton | high wet strength
high absorbability
low elasticity,
resilient, fiber
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linen/flax | waxy, natural sheen
high wet strength
no elasticity, fiber
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wool | elastic and resilient
natural insulator
low wet strength
shrinks
fiber
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silk | high aborbability
low wet strength
porous
elastic
not resilient
smooth and shiny: feed silk worms mulberry leaves
raw silk: feed worms oak leaves, fiber
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cellulosic | cotton and linen
come from plants
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protien | wool and silk
come from animals
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keratin | what wool is made of
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worsted wool | smooth wool
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woolen wool | knubbier, coarser wool
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man made fibers | non-cellulosic
rayon, acetate, nylon, polyester, acrylic, spandex
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rayon | immitate silk, cellulosic, manmade
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acetate4 | cellulosic, manmade
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nylon | invented in 1939
wizard of oz, manmade
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polyester | elastic and resilient, manmade
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acrylic | immitate wool, manmade
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spandex | elastic and resilient (500%), manmade
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weaving | interlacing of thread and yarn
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plain weave | looks same on both sides, weave
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twill weaves | looks diagonal
"float"
strong, weave
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satin weave | no specific pattern
has sheen
smooth, weave
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pile weave | from piled loops
knap- 2 different colors, weave
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knitting | interlooping of threads
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stitch | each loop
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course | rows of stitches, knitting
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wale | verticle columns, knitting
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felting | bonding fibers with heat and pressure
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millinry | medium felt
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decorative felt | light weight felt
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costume director | leader of costume shop
budgets
hires staff
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crafts head | in charge of crafts team
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wardrobe supervisor | in charge of wardrobe team
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dressers | changes actors
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daycrew | during day cleans costumes
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Created by:
treaser12
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